How to Refinish Kitchen or Bathroom Cabinets
A Cabinet Project Will Add Value and Help to Sell Your Home
Jul 21, 2009
Depending on what is under all those layers of previous good intentions, cabinets can be refinished in days or take several weekends to complete. Depending on your budget, costs can also vary widely, particularly for kitchens:
- refinishing cabinets and hardware – $200 to 250
- refinishing cabinets and replacing hardware – $400 to 500
- replacing cabinet doors, drawer fronts and hardware – $1200 to 1500
- replacing entire cabinet package – $2500 to 3000 and up
(Estimates only: Costs will vary by area, products used and room size)
Always Stain Good Quality Wood When Refinishing
High quality wood should always be stained and clear-coated. It maintains the more costly finished look, thereby preserving or adding value to your home. If your cabinets are painted and stain is what you want, strip a small four-inch square from the inside of one of the doors. If the wood is good quality, you will have the option to stain or paint. Cabinets made of plywood, particle or pressed board are always meant to be painted.
Each stripping method has its advantages and disadvantages:
- Sanding will require masks for all as it generates a lot of dust. The dust can sift throughout your home unless you “tent” the space (hang plastic sheeting barriers in the open doorways to the other living areas) to prevent this. All of the nooks and edges will need to be done by hand with sandpaper but the removal process is a dry one.
- Liquid remover will allow you to get to every edge and does not generate any dust. The clean up can be messy but will stay confined to the space. Most removers give off an odor; some are simply aromatic while others require a filtered mask to block out potentially harmful fumes.
Lay Out Your Refinishing Tools Before You Start Your Project
Designate a project area that can be left in basic disarray while you work without disrupting the rest of your home. Assemble all of your tools before you begin. For sanding you will need a power sander, hand sander, a supply of paper for both, dust masks, safety goggles, broom and dustpan and plastic sheeting (5 mil works well).
For liquid removal, you’ll need to work in an area with good air ventilation; if outside is an option, that will work, too. Assemble the following tools:
- chemical gloves,
- filtered respirator,
- rags and a water bucket for rag disposal,
- a plastic putty knife
- a plastic or canvas drop cloth for the floor.
For both types of removal the tools you will need are:
- a screwdriver,
- roll of masking tape,
- marker,
- small containers with lids or a supply of self-closing plastic bags.
Remove the doors carefully. With a piece of masking tape on the back of each door, tag the door’s original location and do the same to the inside of the cupboard. Carefully place all screws into containers or plastic bags. Before you put the hardware aside, closely examine it and see if refinishing is an option. Hardware can easily be refinished and spruced up just by using spray paint. Spray paint varieties are endless and limited only by your imagination.
Stain and Paint Removal Methods Vary
Remaining framework should be stripped last to minimize the handling of the stripped surfaces. Freshly sanded wood is completely exposed and therefore extremely vulnerable to moisture or contaminants. Even the natural oils from your skin can mark them; this can drastically affect your results if you are planning to finish with a very light stain. Once sanded clean, handle the wood with clean disposable gloves and protect it from excessive humidity and moisture.
Power sanding is the better method if you plan to stain; the cleaned finish will be uniform and accept stain evenly. Resist filling in any minor nicks with wood filler as the stain won't penetrate in the same way as it will on the actual wood; repairs will show. Minor imperfections will simply add to the character of the wood.
There are many types of stains available but for the inexperienced woodworker, a gel stain is amongst the simplest to work with. There are no drips and it can be applied as heavily or lightly as desired; read the label for exact instructions. Once dry, multiple coats of satin (not glossy) urethane varnish applied with foam brushes will preserve the effect.
Painted Cabinetry Can Be Effective in Older or Newer Homes
Painting your cabinets is simpler. If the coating is merely dull and worn, sanding it smooth without returning to the original wood surface will work well. Badly peeling surfaces, however, will likely continue to peel, even after a new coating is applied over top; the old paint will just lift the new along with it.
In cases like this, you’ll need to completely strip the wood. A coat of speed or quick primer over the bare wood or old finish will create a new, ready-to-paint surface. Properly fill any dents or chips with filler that is labeled “paintable”.
The recommended topcoat product, melamine paint, has a thin consistency and will require patience when applying. Spraying it will provide the most professional look but excellent results can be had with rolling as well. Melamine style paint has a satin appearance and is available in custom colors. Once two to three coats are dry, it will provide a very hard finish for years to come.
Stain or Paint is a Minimal Cost for Maximum Value
Real estate agents are fond of informing their clients that remodeling or redecorating your kitchen and/or bathroom will pay you back 75-115% of your investment value. If you are looking to sell, doing something as simple as giving your cabinets a facelift is a great place to start.
Kitchens are the most frequented rooms in any home and a great looking bathroom can be the difference in closing the sale. Arranging your home by giving these rooms a lift will do wonders in making it more attractive to potential buyers.
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